Ordering custom jewelry: process, timing and cost

Custom jewelry comes in two forms. Made-to-order means an existing design is made for you in your chosen metal, size or detail, which takes about 3 to 5 weeks. Bespoke means a new design is created with you from sketches, which takes 6 to 10 weeks after you approve the design. Before you start, decide your budget, gather references, know your ring size if relevant, and expect a deposit and final sale terms.

Made-to-order or bespoke

The word custom covers a wide range of work, so it helps to be precise. Made-to-order means a piece from an existing collection is made once you place the order, often with a choice of metal color, karat, size or engraving. The design is already resolved, so the process is predictable and the price is fixed.

Bespoke means designing something that does not yet exist. You work with a designer through sketches and revisions until the design is right, then a goldsmith makes it by hand. Bespoke allows for anything within the limits of the materials, and it takes longer and involves more conversation.

If an existing design is close to what you want, made-to-order is usually faster and less expensive. If you have a specific idea that no existing piece captures, bespoke is the right path.

How a bespoke commission works

Every studio has its own process, but most follow a similar sequence. At VÉRA, a commission moves through these stages.

Consultation: a conversation at our New York studio, by appointment, about what you want, how it will be worn and your budget.
Sketches: Vera Castellan, our founder and designer, draws initial designs based on the consultation.
Quote: a written quote with metal, stones, dimensions and the expected timeline.
Deposit: a 50% deposit confirms the commission and lets us source materials.
Design approval: you approve the final design, including size and any engraving.
Making: the piece is made in our studio over 6 to 10 weeks from approval.
Collection or delivery: the balance is paid and the piece is collected or shipped, insured.

What to bring to the first meeting

The more you can show, the faster the design comes together. Images are more useful than words, and images of things you dislike are as useful as those you like.

Bring photographs of jewelry, architecture, objects or patterns that capture the feeling you want. Bring pieces you already wear so we can see their scale and how a new piece would sit beside them. If the piece is a ring, know the ring size, or bring a ring that fits the right finger. If you would like to include a stone you already own, bring it, and we will discuss whether it is suitable for the design.

Most important, bring a budget range. A range lets us suggest the right metal, stone size and level of detail from the start, instead of designing something and then reducing it.

How pricing works

The cost of a custom piece comes from three main things. First, metal: the weight of gold and its karat. An 18k piece contains 75% gold, compared with 58.5% for 14k, so the same design costs more in 18k. Second, stones: their type, size and quality, which can be the largest part of the price for a diamond or sapphire piece. Third, labor: the hours of design and bench work, including setting, engraving and finishing.

To give a sense of scale, our ready-to-wear pieces range from $290 for the Thread Stacking Ring in 14k to $6,800 for the Vera Solitaire in 18k with a 1.00 ct diamond. Bespoke pieces of similar size and materials usually cost more, because of the design time involved.

Timing and deadlines

Plan around the timeline, not the other way around. Made-to-order pieces take 3 to 5 weeks. Bespoke commissions take 6 to 10 weeks after design approval, and the design stage can add several weeks of its own, depending on how many revisions you need and how quickly you respond.

If the piece is for a proposal, wedding or anniversary, start at least three months ahead. Rushing the design stage is the most common reason a custom piece disappoints. Shipping within the US is insured and tracked, and orders over $500 require a signature on delivery.

Terms to understand before you commit

Because a custom piece is made for one person, the usual return rules do not apply. At VÉRA, made-to-order and bespoke pieces, as well as engraved and resized-to-order pieces, are final sale unless faulty. Read the quote and the final design carefully, and ask questions before you approve.

Confirm the metal, karat and color in writing.
Confirm stone type, size and grade, and whether a grading report is included.
Check the spelling of any engraving letter by letter.
Confirm the ring size, and whether the design can be resized later.
Ask what the warranty covers. At VÉRA, every piece has a 2-year warranty against manufacturing defects.

After the piece is finished

A custom piece is meant to be worn for decades, so aftercare matters. Keep your quote, design sketches and any grading report together. Every VÉRA piece, custom or not, includes free professional cleaning and claw checks at our studio for life, and repairs after the warranty period are done at cost.

To start a conversation about a commission, write to care@verafinejewelry.store, call (212) 555-0186, or book an appointment at 52 Greene Street, Studio 3F, New York, Tuesday to Saturday, 11:00 to 18:00.

Written by Vera Castellan, Founder and designer. Vera founded the studio in 2018 and draws every collection, starting from the chamfered octagon of the hallmark stamp. She still answers most custom requests herself, meets clients for consultations, and approves every design before it reaches the bench. Published September 15, 2026. General guidance only; for advice on a specific piece, book a consultation.