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VÉRA

What your jewelry is made of, and how

Everything we can tell you about the metal, the stones and the work behind a VÉRA piece, in plain terms.

Last updated

Hands measuring a gold ring with digital calipers at the jeweler's bench

Precious metals

We work only in solid gold: 14k for pieces that see the most wear, 18k where we want a deeper color and where the design is protected from knocks. We do not use plating, vermeil, gold fill or silver.

Our gold is recycled, refined back to the same purity as newly mined gold. White gold is alloyed with palladium rather than nickel.

Karat marks follow the FTC Jewelry Guides, which set how gold content may be stamped and described in the US.

The two golds we use
StampGold contentBest for
14k58.5%Rings, chains and bracelets worn every day
18k75%Gemstone settings, signature and bridal pieces

14k vs. 18k gold: what the numbers mean

Three details on every piece

However small or simple, every VÉRA piece is made with the same three details, so anything you own from us belongs with everything else.

  • The chamfered octagon

    The outline of the hallmark stamp we strike inside every piece. It shapes our bezels, links, pendants, ring faces and even the profile of our bands.

  • One satin plane

    Each piece has one surface brushed to a satin finish against mirror polish. It softens the shine, shows the form, and wears in gracefully.

  • A line of granules

    A row of gold granules, each about half a millimetre, traces one edge. Granulation is one of the oldest goldsmithing techniques; we fuse each line by hand.

Gemstones

Every stone is selected by our gemologist, Amara Lowell, GIA Graduate Gemologist (see the GIA Gem Encyclopedia at gia.edu for each stone’s properties). Hardness is on the Mohs scale, where 10 is the hardest.

Stones we set, their hardness and what comes with them
StoneHardnessWhat we use and what you receive
Diamond10Natural. G to H color, VS clarity for small stones; GIA report on centre stones of 0.50 ct and above.
Sapphire9Natural, heat treated as most sapphires are, chosen for even color. Studio gemologist's report.
Emerald7.5 to 8Natural, with traditional oil to improve clarity. Set in bezels to protect the corners.
Freshwater pearl2.5 to 4.5Cultured, chosen for lustre. The softest material we use; care notes included.

How a piece is made

  1. Drawing and wax

    Each design starts as a drawing, then a hand-carved or printed wax model at true size.

  2. Casting

    The wax is cast in solid gold. We weigh every casting against the design weight.

  3. Fitting and setting

    Clasps, posts and hinges are fitted; stones are set by hand under magnification.

  4. Finishing

    Filed, sanded and polished in stages, or brushed for a satin face.

  5. Stamping and inspection

    Stamped with the fineness and our mark, then checked at 10x before it is boxed.

A goldsmith inspecting a piece under a bench microscope in the studio
The studio workbench with a microscope, lamps and hand tools

Quality and documentation

Inspection. Every claw, clasp and solder joint is checked at 10x magnification, and every ring is measured on a mandrel, before it is boxed.

What comes with your piece. A receipt listing the metal and any stones, a care card, and for diamonds of 0.50 ct and above, the GIA grading report. Colored stones come with a report from our gemologist.

If something goes wrong. Manufacturing defects are covered for two years. After that we repair at cost, and cleaning and claw checks are free for life. Contact us and we will arrange it.

Sourcing. We buy recycled gold from refiners who certify it, and stones from suppliers who disclose origin and treatment. We publish only what we can document.